Viennese Waltz

We love staying in Vienna. Whether it’s at the end of a long cycling trip (see the Donauradweg cycle route) or at the start of a new trekking adventure, Vienna offers diversions galore. Vienna is food, is wine, is beauty, and is culture.

Our trips to Vienna often start with an intense planning session in our hotel room. Where have we been, where haven’t we been, and where shall we wander. We try to include as many sights as possible, although sometimes we still don’t have enough time to see everything!

The Spanish Riding School is one of the oldest dressage schools in the world. Sure, it’s a bit pricy, but the elegance of watching horses trot in complex patterns, jump over gates and barriers, and generally be controlled by expert hands is a pleasure in itself. Not to mention the architecture. Book well in advance, however, as tickets are sold out very quickly.

Schönbrunn Palace and the zoo accompanying it are classic Baroque marvels that can take all day to explore. You mustn’t miss a tour of the residence and the chance to admire the opulent surroundings. We loved the Tirolian gardens there and nearly became lost. Fortunately, we stumbled across one of Vienna’s big secrets: a surprisingly good puppet show hidden near the back of the gardens. The zoo has everything a zoo could want: pandas, giraffes, and thousands of butterflies. The Borneo exhibition is always worth a look, although it does get very warm in there.

Vienna’s Ringstrauss (ring boulevard) is an awe-inspiring piece of architecture. Around four miles long, it circles the city center like a set of walls; indeed that’s where the city walls were until they were torn down in 1857. For a lovely walk, start at your hotel and follow the boulevard around. On the way, you’ll encounter the State Opera House, the Museum of Fine Art, and the Austrian Parliament.

If it’s food you want, we would recommend the sublime Hotel Sacher in Philharmonikerstrasse. It’s the ultimate in Viennese cooking. If you’re after something less pricy, try the M Lounge in Hermanngasse or the Restaurant Der Kuckuck in Himmelpfortgasse. Both are excellent restaurants serving great Austrian food. We felt the M Lounge was very cheap for the food it offered, and we were surprised it wasn’t full when we went there after our epic cycling trip.

Finally, you must visit Vienna’s historic center. It’s like looking at an old photo of how city centers used to look and then realizing you’re in the present. Vienna has so much to offer every visitor, from great zimmers, apartments, and hotels, to delicious food, great coffee, and amazing attractions.

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Beer, Beer and More Austrian Beer

Like many places in central Europe, Austria is a major beer-producing region. As we’ve travelled around Austria, we’ve tried a lot of beer. We’ve already mentioned one in this blog: Gösser. While I prefer it to the other mainstream Austrian beers, particularly for the lack of hangover it gives me when waking up in my hotel room, there are several major types of beer. Beer making is endemic in Austria, so you may even stay in a pension or zimmer that brews its own beer. Be sure to try it ... carefully!

Styria, in the southeast of Austria, produces Gösser, Puntigamer and Murauer. These three are fairly different to each other, so let’s have a quick look at them.

Gösser

This is a light lager that is very easy to drink. When we’re in Styria, this is our lunchtime and dinnertime lager as it goes with pretty much anything. It isn’t particularly complex in terms of taste, but it goes down very easily. Out of the three Styrian beers, this is easily the best.

Puntigamer

This is very similar to Budweiser in taste. Very light and watery with very little flavor. Unless you really love Bud, try something different. There’s so many beers to choose from!

Murauer

This is another typical light lager with a slightly sweetish taste. It’s the sort of beer that is drinkable, so you have it when you want something you recognize or when you can’t see anything else you like better. Personally, I would stick to Gösser when it’s available.

Upper Austria produces another three major brands of beer: Kaiser, Zipfer and Kapsreiter.

Kaiser

This comes in two brands: Kaiser Fasstyp and Kaiser Premium. Kaiser Fasstyp has quite a mellow taste that lingers with a bit of yeastiness. I found the aftertaste a little odd. The premium version is a little better, but they both scream mass-marketed beer to us.

Zipfer

Those who like a slightly bitter lager will love Zipfer. It’s not my cup of tea, but it adds a bit of variety to Austria’s major beers.

Kapsreiter

This is one of the better beers in Austria. It smelled wonderful, and the taste was great. It is a little stronger in flavor than Gösser, but it’s fantastic for savoring. Drink this as a treat if you love full-flavored beers.

Vienna and Salzburg have their own breweries, and these city beers can be quite pleasant when enjoyed on a hotel room balcony or outside in the summer.

Ottakringer

Very light beer with little taste. It’s good for getting drunk on as you can drink a lot, but why not explore Vienna instead?

Steigl

Produced in Salzburg, this beer is somewhat earthy and slightly darker than most lagers. It’s one of the better beers, and it’s great with dark meats or as part of a meal.

Augustiner

If you’re visiting Salzburg, you must go to the monastery to try this beer. With a solid taste and a good fresh feel, this beer is one of the best lagers I’ve tasted. OK, it helps that the experience is also quite cool—you stand in line to get your beer and you drink it at long narrow tables. Very friendly and very sociable.

Finally, I must mention Edelweiss as a great wheat beer. It’s got a fantastically rich flavor and works well if you love porters or stouts.

No matter where you are, though, you will find a beer you like. Whether it’s in the hotel bar, in a monastery, or with friends in a pub, Austria has a beer for you.

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Oh Little Town in Austria . . .

Austria is full of little towns where we have stayed and enjoyed the local delicacies. While big metropolitan areas are always fun to visit, both my partner and I grew up in rural areas, which mean we love the little towns and villages that dot Austria’s landscape. Whether we’re staying in a small pension or hotel in a town or have found a zimmer in a village, we find these small clumps of houses really reveal the heart of Austria.

For sheer Austrian beauty, you cannot go wrong with the town of Hallstatt. Set on Hallstatter See, a large lake in Upper Austria, it is one of the most picturesque towns you’ll ever visit. When covered in snow, it looks like a gingerbread house town, although it may be a little salty thanks to the salt mines in the area. These mines serve as one of the town’s tourist attractions, as does the town’s ossuary, a place where the bones of the dead are stored. The reason everyone goes here, though is for the relaxation, the walks, and the views. It’s a wonderful place to be.

Pertisau in Tyrol is a lovely summer and winter village. In winter, it has the great ski slopes that dominate the Tyrolean Alps. In summer, it has access to the lush warm waters of Achensee and the gorgeous mountains around it. It’s not as pretty as Hallstatt, but the food is better.

Feldbach in eastern Styria is a lovely sleepy town set in the rolling vineyards. It has a great mediaeval feel about it, and the castles surrounding it just reinforce that sense of being back in 1200. Of course, the wine that comes out of that region also makes you feel like you’re somewhere in the dark ages, although that could just be the hangover. While you’re there, visit Bad Gleichenberg where there is a spa.

Mürzzuschlag in Lower Austria is always worth a visit as it has some great wild trails and some lovely cycling routes. If you’re interested in railways, there is a railway museum and several other sights. In winter, it has some great skiing nearby, so it’s a fantastic place to eat and sleep between days of skiing. The hotels are often cheaper than their Tyrolean equivalents.

Villach and Landskron in Carinthia have several little interesting bits to explore. The nearby castle, Burgruine Landskron, dominates the local landscapes, and falconers regularly display their birds there. In addition there are a lot of monkeys there, and no, we don’t mean our fellow tourists. The castle holds a collection of macaque monkeys in the Affenberg. When you’re done with the castle, you can explore Ossiachersee, a nearby lake that offers the usual scenic walks and diversions.

Austria’s towns and villages are far too numerous to be listed here, but these are some of our favorites. Hotels and zimmers are usually easy to find, so enjoy your trip to Austria in comfort.

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Family Hotel "Landhaus" in Carinthia Austria

Carinthia, one of the nine states in Austria has some of the finest Zimmers and small hotels in Austria. Carinthia is also your gateway to exploring Slovenia and Italy as it shares its border with those beautiful countries.

Check out the latest Family hotel to join the AustrianZimmers.com website:

http://www.austrianzimmers.com/landhaus_drachenstein,_st._jakob_i._rosental-79

You can relax in a calm atmosphere near the Alps of Austria. You will be served the lovely Austrian breakfast and overall you will have a great country side experience. Come back to tell us and share your story and photos from this hotel with us.

Need a hotel in Austria? Click here to find it at Booking.com

Ich Spreche Englisch: German Phrases You Should Know

As with any country, it helps to speak the native language. While some of us, particularly myself, are very bad at languages, it does pay to know the basic phrases of German, Austria’s mother tongue. Whether you are trying to ask for a room in a hotel, say please or thank you, or ask for a beer, these brief phrases will help you to communicate in Austria.

Greetings are usually similar to English. Hallo is a basic greeting used to cover most situations. Guten Tag (good day, pronounced gooten taag), Guten Morgan (good morning), and Guten Abend (good evening, pronounced gooten ah-bun) are similar time-specific greetings. Auf Wiedersehen (Goodbye, pronounced owf veeder-zayn) and bis bald (see you soon, pronounced biss bauld) are good ways to see someone off.

Continuing on the conversation, you’ve got wie geht es Ihnen? (how are you, pronounced vee gate is eenen). You hear a reply of Danke, gut. Und Ihnen? This indicates the speaker is well (good, thanks. And yourself?, pronounced danker goot. Unt eenen?).

Yes and no are ja and nein (yaa and nine) respectively.

The one I came to rely on for a while was sprechen sie Englisch? (do you speak English, pronounced spreken-zie Engleesh). However, when the answer was nein or ein bisschen (a little, pronounced eyn beeshen) I found I ended up resorting to an ever-handy phrasebook.

Please and thank you are bitte (pronounced bit-ter) and danke (pronounced dan-ker).

Now for the important stuff I found incredibly useful.

Numbers one to six are ein, zwei, drei, vier, funf, and sechs (eyn, szvei, dry, fear, foonf, and zex). So if you were asking for four beers, you would say “veir Bier bitte.” A number of German words are similar to their English counterparts, so this makes pronouncing them a lot easier.

Although the point hold up the number of fingers for the items you need approach can work well, it does painfully indicate you know nothing about German. I find it’s best to garble the German pronunciation a little, as that seems to make it more easily understandable. For a real rustic accent, a raging throat infection is recommended.

Ein Zimmer,bitte is what you need to say if you’re looking for a room for the night. Of course, if you’ve already booked your hotel room (hint hint), all you might need to say is Ich habe ein Zimmer reserviert. Meine Name ist *name* (I have reserved a room. My name is ...).

Hopefully a few of these phrases will help you to get around a bit more easily. It’s amazing how far you can go by remembering a few simple phrases.